Years ago, in search of a new signature scent, I stopped at a Neiman's counter and found myself in front of the Creeds, not knowing Creed but guessing it was probably okay, since it was in the store. Spraying and sniffing began, but nothing strongly appealed. I was about to give up when the manager came and asked if I had a favorite floral. That was easy. Jasmine. He disappeared and returned with a bottle of this, originally formulated for Napoleon's empress. A few sniffs and I plunked down my credit card to pay the hefty price, understanding why Eugenie urged the House of Creed to move from London (where for 100 years it had been serving the English Crown), to Paris so it could scent her 24-7. Since that counter visit, I've lived in fear of running out of Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie. It isn't the best Jasmine I've ever smelled. For me, that honor goes to Montale's Jasmin Full. However it's definitely one of the best fragrances I've ever smelled. Eventually I learned it’s classified as an oriental and that these are big, sensual creations. Last year when I bought a perfumery kit and first smelled galaxolide, I recognized it as an underpinning of this scent and others. Experimenting, I combined it with indolic Jasmine Grandiflora and Bergamot and voila! Love. Whatever this perfume contained in Eugenie’s day, it has galaxolide now. Otherwise, I’m inclined to believe it is as noncomplex as the notes listed. Bergamot, Bulgarian Rose, Jasmine, Ambergis, Sandalwood, Vanilla are quite a narcotic enough mix to account for this empress’ beautiful airs. I wore it today to my nail salon and was swiftly complimented. Longevity and sillage have always been top notch, but recently when I bought a backup bottle, the empress didn’t seem the same. Reformulation? Lack of quality control? I’m nursing every drop of my old bottle, because the new one, though also lovely, doesn’t seem quite as grand.
A Rescued Love
Hubby bought this, didn't like it, and gave it to me to sell or give away. Thank goodness I finally sniffed it or I wouldn't own this marvel. Not only do I find it an oud a gal can wear, (no doubt because of the maturity of the oud), it has Patchouli in the base (a wood I adore) and in the heart my favorite floral, rose! And these aren't just any roses, but the powdery Taif, the Chinese. The rubber took some getting used to, but somehow it actually makes the whole composition and it calms down after a bit. Don't get me wrong, you can actually smell every ingredient, sultry black pepper, bright candied mandarin, the white tea, the iris. Damascus steel? If they mean actual steel, I think I can smell that, too. What's the effect? Pretend you're a knight armored for battle. Your lady has made a rose garland for your horse. You smell its hoofs, freshly shod, the wood of your lance, freshly sanded, the sharpened blade. Hmmm...what's heliotropin again? Consulting perfumery kit. To my nose it has an cherry vanilla smell. That's there, too. Someone's handed our knight a cup of mulled wine. All told, Thirty Three is beauty and adventure in a long-lasting scent that projects.