Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie von Creed

Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie 1870

21.03.2014 - 16:55 Uhr

An Empress

Years ago, in search of a new signature scent, I stopped at a Neiman's counter and found myself in front of the Creeds, not knowing Creed but guessing it was probably okay, since it was in the store. Spraying and sniffing began, but nothing strongly appealed. I was about to give up when the manager came and asked if I had a favorite floral. That was easy. Jasmine. He disappeared and returned with a bottle of this, originally formulated for Napoleon's empress. A few sniffs and I plunked down my credit card to pay the hefty price, understanding why Eugenie urged the House of Creed to move from London (where for 100 years it had been serving the English Crown), to Paris so it could scent her 24-7. Since that counter visit, I've lived in fear of running out of Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie. It isn't the best Jasmine I've ever smelled. For me, that honor goes to Montale's Jasmin Full. However it's definitely one of the best fragrances I've ever smelled. Eventually I learned it’s classified as an oriental and that these are big, sensual creations. Last year when I bought a perfumery kit and first smelled galaxolide, I recognized it as an underpinning of this scent and others. Experimenting, I combined it with indolic Jasmine Grandiflora and Bergamot and voila! Love. Whatever this perfume contained in Eugenie’s day, it has galaxolide now. Otherwise, I’m inclined to believe it is as noncomplex as the notes listed. Bergamot, Bulgarian Rose, Jasmine, Ambergis, Sandalwood, Vanilla are quite a narcotic enough mix to account for this empress’ beautiful airs. I wore it today to my nail salon and was swiftly complimented. Longevity and sillage have always been top notch, but recently when I bought a backup bottle, the empress didn’t seem the same. Reformulation? Lack of quality control? I’m nursing every drop of my old bottle, because the new one, though also lovely, doesn’t seem quite as grand.

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