Reformulations: overall, there was one big reformulation in 2013 of several Amouage fragrances driven by IFRA and the European Cosmetics regulations (just before the change to magnetic caps which is why both are often associated). Since then, a few minor adjustments on some fragrances but nothing as significant as 2013. Reflection Man was reformulated in 2013. I have asked to smell side by side the old and new formulas freshly mixed (to allow for fair comparison) and there is indeed a minor difference in the character (the new formula feels slightly less floral and powdery/dusty than the older one). The 2013 formula feels slightly woodier. No reformulation since 2013 - however, there is a new regulation applicable in May 2022 (IFRA 49) that will require a new formula of Reflection man (and will, in general, impact a lot of fragrances on the market). IFRA 49 has an impact on two floral/green/aldehydic/aromatic synthetic molecules contained in Reflection Man: Lyral and Lilial. There are good olfactive substitutes for these but the technical challenge comes from the fact that they are good fixatives and quite diffusive. I have been working on this with the perfumers for over a year now with the following intentions: trying to stick (or go back) as much as possible to the original character pre-2013 and don't compromise on the performance (diffusion and lastingness). We are not fully done yet but it is getting there (keeping in mind that we are talking about minor changes that are sometimes difficult to spot through triangulation by trained fragrance evaluators). And it clearly means investing more on the concentrate as we need to replace relatively affordable but performing synthetics with a mix of naturals and synthetics that will bring the original character without sacrificing the performance. Which brings me to point 2.
2. Fragrances names at the front: some Amouage bottles had the Amouage logo at the front of the bottle, then the fragrance name printed on each side of the bottle and finally engraved in very small on the magnetic neck of the bottle (and one more time on the women's cap). Some bottles did not have that (e.g. Gold, Dia etc). That’s a huge complexity (four of five extra production steps) which takes time, leads to extra waste due to quality rejections, is an inventory management nightmare (Amouage has over 3,000 semi-finished components…) and the name is not even properly visible on bottles pictures. Personally, I thought that it makes much more sense to invest that time on maturing and macerating properly and take what was spent on all that unnecessary complexity to give more of what I think our clients really want: great fragrances (juices) of top quality. I want people at Amouage to re-focus as the number one priority on the scents. Finally, the names being moved to the front are not linked to any type of reformulation.
3. What could explain variations of Amouage fragrances (and fragrances in general): this is often hard to predict as it is an accumulation of different factors that can add up and lead to noticeable differences. Here are some of them:
- Age of the product: fragrance do keep on aging in the bottles, particularly if the fragrance contains a high % of naturals, if the bottle is transparent and exposed to heat or direct lighting. For example, some perfumers keep their samples close to windows before meeting with creative directors. Some fragrance people like fragrances displayed in store windows for the same reason. Several people recommend to spray a few times a new product to get oxygen in and then let it sit for 2 weeks before using. Therefore, a 2014 Reflection Man, if stored in OK conditions, should smell rounder than a 2020 one.
- Linked to this is the demand for a brand or a product. If a product becomes a best seller, it does not sit much in factories, in retailers’ warehouses or on shelves. If the demand is high (Reflection is the second best-selling Amouage fragrance and its sales have increased significantly in the past 12 months), the time between when a product leaves the Amouage warehouse and when it reaches the final client becomes shorter and the product might appear “fresher” for the first months. Now, the temptation could be to shorten maturation and maceration times but this is something we would not compromise at Amouage (we currently have several products in waiting list with our partners because of that).
- The naturals qualities and their specificities: if a fragrance contains natural ingredients, it is exposed – by definition – to variations depending on the character of each crop. We (and the fragrance industry in general) avoid these variations by doing what is called a “communelle”. The principle is to blend different crops (seasons and locations) of the same natural to keep the character as constant as possible throughout the years. It works very well on big volumes of naturals (e.g. a bergamot of a big brand could remain very consistent over the years) but can be difficult on smaller volumes of rarer or proprietary ingredients.
4. Difference Made in UK vs Made in Oman: the exact same concentrate, ethanol, dosage and, in general, production process was always used for the Made in UK and Made in Oman perfumes. I cannot certify that the maturation and maceration were always exactly the same as there is no historical data about it but this is documented in a process that was the same for both locations, so I don’t see any reason for consistent deviations. What could have happened, as per my previous point, is that some concentrates and products could have been used faster in the UK – it could be the case for Reflection Man as it sells well in the US and UK, both locations that were shipped from the UK factory (but this is pure speculation). Today, we don’t produce anymore in the UK and I am monitoring the evolution of every single solution (in concentrate and in alcohol) on a weekly basis. I am a strong advocate of longer aging – I hope that the difference will be felt in the 2021 productions.
5. Just to make it clear: I think that there is absolutely no interest for an independent fragrance house to intentionally “cheapen or water down” a best-selling perfume like Reflection. It takes so much effort and investments to get one of those “classics” that we actually need to make sure it is protected and keeps on being loved. I follow those discussions carefully because it gives a good indication about the perceptions of our clients and where I need to have the attention of everyone.
Valentino Uomo Intense (2016)
Valentino Uomo (2014) 
Valentino Uomo Intense
