vor 8 Jahren 2
Nur als Erinnerung an die alten Zeiten hier das Erlebnis von Luca Turin, der das Insolence EdP ein „Godzilla floral“ (2009), nannte und 5 Sterne verpasste.
„In their haste to copy Angel, most perfume houses lost track of the fact that what made it great was not just the smell-that weird combination of patchouli, candyfloss, and blackcurrant – but the effect, the ta-da! moment, the euphoric surprise that a perfume could be so outrageous and still win. The first Insolence [EdT] came close, except that the shock was spoiled by a violet-hair-spray top note that made it stumble as it cartwheeled onto the stage. When Guerlain PR offered to send me the new Insolence EdP, I inquired whether the formula was different. The young lady on the phone said yes with a knowing chuckle. And, by golly, it really is different. Guerlain has finally decided that this thing should not even try to be classy and has embraced it as the most deliciously vulgar perfume on the market today. Maurice Roucel’s serious compositions are always complex, but there is so much going on here that it feels like a seventies action-movie poster, with a helicopter hovering over a burning building to the right, two cars jumping off a pier in the middle, a girl in a white dress being lifted out of a swamp in a guy’s arms at left, and an erupting volcano in the background. The accord is tuberose, red fruit, orange blossom, and a green-peppery Poeme-type note that fits perfectly in this context. All four are heavy hitters, and the combination is simply huge. There is something reckless, irreversible, cataclysmic about pressing the spray button on Insolence EdP, even when it is pointed well away from you. I put some on a smelling strip, left it on the table, and walked out for lunch. The perfume ran after me: enough had strayed onto the back on my hand to create a cloud of pink-neon trashiness that made me feel I was being driven to the local cafe in a stretch limo. When I came back, the strip greeted me heartily across the room. I know I will regret saying this (especially sitting next to it at dinners and concerts), but this Insolence is a masterpiece.“
Luca Turin („Perfume the Guide“, 2te Auflg. S. 313)
Das EdT bekam von ihm 4 Sterne und wurde als „floral oriental“ bezeichnet.
„They got the name right. Insolence puts one in mind of the sort of person who, while intrinsically attractive, manages to antagonize everyone by lacking all social graces. Using toothsome Hilary Swank in the ads as a lapdancer from Star Trek is ludicrous. The dirty-dishes bottle is memorably silly. The Tresor-like hue of the liquid must have been decided by a color-blind anosmie. The fragrance itself starts with two minutes of the most disastrous top notes in living memory (hair spray and Violettes de Toulouse). What a shame, because it is a monumentally skillful thing. This is Maurice Roucel’s homage to L’Heure Bleue, and bears the same relationship to its model as Godowsky’s studies do to Chopin’s Etudes: the structure of the original has been parceled up into tiny elements that are then set in motion like a flight of starlings, making a shape in the air that is recognizably L’Heure Bleue, but swirling, intermittent, teeming with decorative melismas borrowed from other sources. Jacques Guerlain’s masterpiece is transfigured into something that lacks L’Heure Bleue’s weight, poise, and softness, a ghostly creature of spangles and neon. It is legitimate to prefer the original, and to dislike Insolence’s loud, brassy tone. But the art of perfumery is irrevocably advanced. “
Turin in einem anderen Zusammenhang:
„Und nun erscheint sein Insolence. Der erste Eindruck ist Verblüffung. Roucel bricht mit der Marotte eines ansprechenden Auftakts. Die ersten Minuten sind, wie in der glorreichen alten Zeit, verquer: süssliche Veilchen in einer Wolke von Haarspray. Wenn sie die Verkäufer nicht angemessen instruieren, wird Insolence schwer an die Frau zu bringen sein. Aber wenn sich das Gewusel aus Kopfnoten zu einem gemässigten Galopp verlangsamt, merken Sie plötzlich, dass Sie durch eines der bestkomponierten Parfums seit Menschengedenken hindurchbrausen.
Der Bezug auf Guerlains Vergangenheit ist offenbar: L’Heure Bleue, das einen puderblauen Neuanstrich erhalten hat. Während der folgenden Stunden pendelt Insolence zwischen diesem Verweis und einer gespenstisch schillernden Reminiszenz an die Tuberose in Amarige hin und her. Roucels Markenzeichen, das Magnolienblatt, bewirkt wahre Wunder. Wenn L’Instant ein Peugot 406 war, dann ist Insolence der Ferrari der Familie, ein 612er-Scaglietti: aus einigen Perspektiven grossartig anzusehen, aus anderen schräg, doch in Bewegung stets eine faszinierende Erscheinung. Es ist kein 330er-GTC (das war seinerzeit Chamade) – aber würden Sie ihn als Geschenk zurückweisen?“
(Du 2006.10)