Eva Kant O'Driù 2013

Eva Kant opens with a splash of herb-laced grapefruit before quickly transitioning to an effervescent rose and geranium tandem supported by underlying dry anise and coffee with subtle hints of sharp lemon citrus and animalic castoreum peeping through. The herbal rose and geranium infused anise and coffee accord continues through the early heart, starting off strong before gradually giving way to a powdery ylang ylang, magnolia and lavender floral trio with bitter wood-like myrrh support taking over through the latter heart. During the late dry-down moderately powdery vanilla and benzoin take over as co-stars balanced by smooth sandalwood, as the diminished earlier spicy floral remnants fade. Projection is very good and longevity outstanding at well over 15 hours on skin.

The open to Eva Kant is probably the most recognizable aspect of the composition, tying it loosely to many O'driu compositions of the past and present. The culinary herbal aspects are there, as is the tremendous castoreum laden dulled rose and geranium accord that is found in some of Pregoni's best work. Where Eva Kant really goes in a different direction is when the ylang ylang and magnolia come into the picture with the dusty powdery facets of the composition really kicking in. The late dry-down in particular is quite pleasant with the powder softening, smoothed by relatively dry sandalwood in the base. The whole composition comes together rather nicely, though some may be put off if they are highly powder-averse. The bottom line is the 150 Euro per 50ml bottle Eva Kant resides around the middle of the O'driu pack. That said, "middle of the pack" from a great nose like Angelo Orazio Pregoni still means very good, with the composition earning a solid 3.5 stars out of 5.